A man and a woman, both wearing sunglasses and hats, smile and pose for a selfie on a sandy beach with large yellow letters spelling "AOMORI" in the background. The woman is making a peace sign with her hand.
David Schulz

Aomori Downtown

It's a short cycle from our apartment to Higashi-Aomori station.  Apparently our leisurely breakfast had been a little too leisurely and we just missed a train and had a wait of nearly an hour for the next one.  It's just two stops to the end of the line - Aomori. 

Exiting the station we were surprised to see a lot of tourists floating about.  We'd become accustomed to the distinct lack of tourists on the Japan Sea coast.  We didn't expect Aomori to be much different.  All became clear when we spied the massive cruise ship in the harbour that had disgorged its hordes into downtown Aomori for the day.  

Eat

We headed away from downtown and the shopping street to avoid the cruise ship crowds.  Given our best ever ramen experience was in Sapporo, Ramen Ajino-Sapporo was a must try.  After a small wait we were able to get a seat at the counter and steaming bowls of a quite spicy ramen were soon served up to us.  I'm not entirely clear what I ordered, but I know I enjoyed it!

Cafe des Gitanes has been serving up single origin coffee goodness for 18 years. The focus here is unapologetically on the coffee. There's no meals, no sweet treats, just coffee. We opted for the Aomori blend pour over which was smooth and flavourful.  

As was to become the norm during our stay in Aomori, we swung by the supermarket on our way home from the station and grabbed a prepared meal for dinner.  It's not quite home cooking but it was nice to have a casual meal without having to head out in the evening.

See and Do

The Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse is the main tourist drawcard downtown and it lives up to its starring role. Here in the North, the winters are long and the summers short, so the festival is a social and cultural bright point.  The museum does a good job of highlighting the exuberance of the festival and showcasing the main players - the massive illuminated washi paper sculpture floats.  The use of perspective is like a real life 3D movie where depth of field is exaggerated for great effect.  The design of the cladding for the building that suggests a curtain being drawn back is a nice touch.

The observation deck at the prefectural tourist information centre is worth a quick look if you're prepared to pay the ¥400 admission.  The 360° view of the harbour and the city gives you a good sense of where things are and how spread out this little city is.