Snow-capped Mount Chokai rises against a clear blue sky, with lush green fields and reflective rice paddies in the foreground. Small buildings are scattered across the landscape, blending harmoniously with the natural surroundings.
Gail Schulz

Day 13 - Sakata to Mamurogawa

I know the whole breaking the bike down so it fits into a rinko bag and dragging it and your panniers onto a train is a PITA.  But trust me, if you are intending on riding this route, catching the train from Kiyokawa to Furukuchi is your best bet.  Look out the train windows and soak in the scenic views of the Mogami River without the constant traffic whizzing past your elbow and that feeling of impending death.    

Route

Today's route was a ride in three acts - a pleasant first act, a dramatic second act and a calming third act.

Almost immediately after leaving our accommodation, we picked up the Mogami River bikeway. This paved path along the top of the river levee bank made for pleasant riding under clear skies and a gentle breeze but nothing so strong as to justify being called a headwind.  There were a number of locals taking advantage of a fine Sunday morning.  The bikeway took us almost into Kiyokawa.

The plan was to consider the traffic and if it was too busy, take the train from here to Furukuchi.  As it turned out, the decision was made for us, with construction of a new tunnel closing services on the line.  We weren't confident the replacement bus service would accommodate bicycles so we were forced to run the gauntlet through the steep valley.  The road has no shoulder or excess width and there are multiple tunnels.  With a steady stream of Sunday traffic it was a bit of an ordeal.

At Furukuchi the valley widens and road choices open up.  We were soon able to leave the 47 road and head up the valley towards Mamorugawa.  The afternoon's riding was on mostly quiet, farm roads.

Map of the route from Sakata to Mamurogawa
Elevation profile of the route

Stay and Eat

After arriving at Furukuchi, we needed a break off the bike to calm the nerves and replenish the energy levels after pedalling hard for many kilometres.  The ramen shop down the hill from the station was a no frills affair but well patronised by the locals. The food was tasty and at ¥600 a bowl it's hard to argue the value.

Tonight's refuge is Farm Stay Kanarian, a minshuku a few kilometres outside Mamurogawa.  The building is quite new, spacious and spotlessly clean. Our host was welcoming and chatty and served up generous home cooked meals.  

A wide-angle view of two parallel, blue steel truss bridges on a clear day. The bridges span over green vegetation, leading towards a distant horizon with mountains barely visible under a pale blue sky.
A blue sign in Japanese and English marks the Mogamigawa River, indicating it as a first-class river. The background features farmland, a snow-capped mountain under a partly cloudy sky, and text at the bottom showing a distance of 11 km to the Sea of Japan.
A cyclist wearing a helmet and carrying a backpack is biking along a paved path beside a river. The cyclist's bike is loaded with panniers. In the background is a red bridge and mountains with a touch of snow on their peaks under a clear sky.
A small rural train station named Kiyokawa, featuring a quaint building with a peaked roof, surrounded by lush green trees and hills under a clear blue sky. Bicycles are parked under a shelter to the right of the station. A rural scenic view in the background.
A serene river flows between lush green mountains under a clear blue sky. A gravel bar juts into the river near the center, creating a calm, peaceful scene surrounded by verdant foliage. The distant horizon is visible between the converging hills.
A bright blue steel bridge spans across a river, with separate pedestrian and vehicle paths. The sky is clear and blue, with lush green grass and trees visible in the background. A street lamp is present along the path, and safety railings line the walkway.
A serene river meanders through a lush, green landscape with dense foliage and trees along its banks. Rolling hills and forested areas are visible in the background under a partly cloudy sky, creating a peaceful and picturesque scene.

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